South Korea

South Korea tends to catch visitors off guard. Most arrive with a vague sense of what to expect and leave having revised it entirely. Seoul is one of the most dynamic cities in Asia, a place where centuries-old palaces sit between glass towers and where the food, from the street stalls of Gwangjang Market to the tasting menus of Gangnam, is worth a trip in its own right.

Beyond Seoul, the country offers considerable variety. The ancient capital of Gyeongju, known as the museum without walls for the Silla Dynasty tombs and temples that dot the surrounding countryside. The island of Jeju, with its volcanic landscape and coastal walking trails. The traditional hanok villages of Jeonju, where the architecture and the food have been preserved with a care that makes it one of the more quietly rewarding stops in the country.

South Korea rewards the traveller who comes with an open mind and leaves the itinerary a little looser than usual. The best days here tend to be the ones that weren't entirely planned.